Allen B. H. McGee's home cir. 1901. Photo courtesy of the McGee family and colorization by Patty Allison |
He was known to take a risk; he had proven that when he
uprooted his wife and seven children from Shelby Co., Ky. and moved them over
500 miles away to the vast unclaimed lands of the state of Missouri. His wife’s
brother had already chosen Clay Co. around Liberty to settle and wrote of the
expansive acreage that gleamed with opportunity and a quick sale. Naturally, he
and his wife decided to follow him to get in on the action.
Few had gambled on this new state. He was always
enterprising; he never turned down a deal, especially when it came to land. He
had an eye for things – a watchful spirit that had him keen to not call Liberty
home for long.
One year is all it took. It was 1828. He had heard of a
small settlement of the French along the banks of the Missouri River in
two-year-old Jackson Co. Before opting for another new beginning, he traveled
by horseback to the bluffs in Clay Co. and looked south to this new unsettled, remote
land.
There was no Kansas City. There wasn’t even a Westport.
There were just a few dozen French Catholic families organized to trade with
the Native Americans. As James looked upon the bluffs, he noted the natural
curve of the Mighty Mo and could sense, through his enterprising ways, that
this wouldn’t stay vacant for long. So many were traveling west just as he did,
and soon enough, pioneers would push even further out into the unknown. He
could envision the change that would eventually
coat the lands along the bluffs and well into the horizon.
James returned home, eager to share his prediction with his
wife. Within the year, they would load up one final time in a wagon, cart
their belongings across the river to the bluffs at the future Kansas City, unload, and bet on
their future.
**************
Missouri, as the history books tell us, became a slave state
in 1820, opening millions of acres of vast, fertile land for all who were
willing to clear it, built a cabin upon it, and cultivate what was then the
wild frontier. And one man, James Hyatt McGee, was willing to roll the dice on
an area where very few white settlers had called home.
Map showing the Missouri Compromise of 1820 that opened settlement to the west. |
But the McGee family of Kansas City proudly holds a legacy
that has shone brightly in this area for just shy of 200 years. And as I’ve
learned firsthand from my incredible friends, whom I refer to as “the McGee
Boys,” Kansas City wouldn’t be KC without their descendants.
Let me introduce you to a few of the characters that make up
their family tree.
James Hyatt McGee
James Hite (Hyatt) McGee (b. 1786), an ambitious Kentuckian, with his wife, Eleanor Fry and seven
small children moved to the Liberty area in 1827. They were married in 1812 in
Shelby Co., Ky. and shortly thereafter, James enlisted in the Kentucky Militia
and fought in the War of 1812 for two years. For whatever the reason, in his
early 40s, this man opted to shimmy a
little bit further southwest from Liberty and landed in the Kansas City
metropolitan area – then just populated by a few dozen French Canadian
families.
When Missouri was granted its statehood, what would become
Kansas City was no more than a steep bluff overlooking the convergence of the
Missouri and Kaw Rivers. No white man dared to settle down at its steep
incline, nor did anyone anticipate that this land would be host to what John C.
McCoy coined “the embryo city.”
But James H. McGee could sense something.
The French Canadians had followed Francois Chouteau and his
wife, Berenice to the area as they established a trading post around 1821. In
the following years, Catholic families followed the Chouteaus to this new
land. The Native Americans called it “Chouteau’s Town.” The small French
Canadian settlement began to gain momentum, but it certainly wasn’t set up to
blossom into a metropolis.
Did James Hyatt McGee hear of this successful trading post
and gamble on the land? Quite possibly. But by 1828, he bought up 320 acres of
land from the French squatters and eventually acquired just shy of 1000 acres
in the heart of what would be the city. In 1829, he took a trip back to
Kentucky and returned with two slaves- the first slaves brought to Jackson
County, Mo.
A 1929 article in the Kansas City Star showcases the expanse of James H. McGee's estate |
1839 John C. McCoy plat of the Town of Kansas |
OK Creek originated near Vine St., and legend has it that
this stream was used during the pre-Civil War days by
runaway slaves. Because these fugitives, on a flight to freedom to the west,
could hide within the bluffs and escape in the night, the creek was a perfect
plan. It washed away the scent for dogs to follow and hid them as black as the
night. Today, OK Creek is buried in sewers near Union Station and is the source
of many of the flooding problems in that area.
James oldest son, Allen Burr Harrison McGee, was born in
1815 in Kentucky. He, along with his brothers, Fry (b. 1816), Mobillion (b.
1817), and Elijah Milton “Milt” (b. 1820), all not even teenagers yet, were
raised in the area when your nearest neighbor was miles and miles away. James
H. McGee, a well-known builder, was even called upon by the French Canadian
settlement to construct the first Catholic church and school in 1835.
He even meddled in the original “Old Town” land. When
Gabriel Prudhomme (cir. 1790) died in a barroom brawl with locals in 1831, his
land was in limbo. His 257 acres would become the original Town of Kansas and the land, a vast wilderness, extended south from the Missouri River bluffs to current-day Independence Ave., east from Broadway to Holmes Rd. The guardian of the estate was none other than James Hyatt
McGee- and his actions directly affected the future of the Town of Kansas. To
read more of the founding of the original town site, click here!
The first brick house in all of Kansas City, built by James H. McGee and his sons in 1834-1835. Photo taken in 1888. Courtesy of the McGee family |
James H. McGee's headstone |
As did many of the pioneers of Jackson County,
James McGee set up a burial plot for his family along what is now 20th
St. between Broadway and Wyandotte. He had lost two children in infancy in
Kentucky, and he ensured that the McGee family had a proper graveyard in the heart of what is now known as
the Freight House and Crossroads Arts District. As family members
and slaves met their final fate, James Hyatt McGee had a resting place for them
on his property.
James H. McGee’s life was cut short when he
passed away in 1840 at the age of 54. He was survived by his wife, Eleanor and
children Amelia, Allen B.H., Fry, Mobillion, Elijah Milton “Milt”, Catherine,
Eleanor, Angeline, Francis and James, Jr. In the "The McGees of Kansas City", author R. Richard Wohl explained, “[James]
McGee, in his way, set a pattern for succession that was to continue unchanged,
except in detail, thereafter in the history of the family.”
But the true heart of this family would come
from James Hyatt McGee’s strong, passionate and renowned spouse, Eleanor “Nellie”
Fry McGee. She, as with many women of the era, was the glue that held the family together when her husband moved them into unchartered territory.
Eleanor “Nellie” Fry McGee- “Mother McGee”
Eleanor Fry McGee original George Caleb Bingham portrait cir. 1840s |
Born in 1793, Eleanor Amelia Fry married James
Hyatt McGee in 1812. Even her parents eventually followed her brother, Solomon Fry
to the Clay Co. area as a fragment of her family resettled into the state of
Missouri. She had lost two children as infants while living in Kentucky but had
given birth to three girls and four boys before moving to Missouri.
To imagine a 34-year-old woman with seven
children nodding her head in approval at the very idea of migrating over 500
miles into a land with nothing is
hard enough. She was embraced by the early settlers of the area; while her
husband was considered to be reserved and somewhat quiet in personal affairs,
Nellie was renowned for her pleasant personality and grace. Records clearly indicate that Nellie
was always consulted on business ventures, even when her husband was alive.
This is just straight-up unique.
Now envisioning that Nellie became a widow only
12 years after settling in what would become Kansas City – with her youngest
child only being three years old- is harrowing.
But this is just what women were expected to
do. And she did it with gusto.
When her husband, James died in 1840, he had
just shy of 1000 acres of land. Usually with a large estate such as this, the
executor orders the land all be sold in one large chunk. When 1000 acres of
land are sold in an area that had a sparse population, the land won’t hold
value. As executrix along with her son, Fry, Nellie was careful to stall the
final settlement of land for 10 years. This
allowed her to keep her large landholdings as the Town of Kansas slowly emerged
to the north and Westport grew to the south. She only sold off pieces of land
for tax purposes.
Old painting of the James H. McGee homestead Courtesy of the McGee family |
It was known by the neighbors, even as far stretched across the land that the were, including the
McCoy's, Chick’s, and Wornall’s, that Mrs.McGee would tend to all that were
ill. Her gardens near her home were
filled with natural remedies that only she knew the origins of- and many owed
their life to her care.
When cholera hit the Town of Kansas in 1849,
Eleanor McGee and Berenice Chouteau both brought the sick into their homes and cared
for them until they were well. It was this tender touch and willingness to
advocate for more than just her own family that gave her the nickname amongst
the earliest pioneers as “Mother McGee."
Mother McGee's original Bible (printed in 1816) resides in Missouri Valley Special Collections and was donated by the family. |
Mother McGee continued to give advice, manage
her estate and emotionally support her children until her death on November 22nd,
1880 at the age of 89. At the time, she was the oldest living pioneer resident of Kansas City and her land now was officially part of the growing city. She
had given birth to fourteen children and only five survived her. Regardless,
her legacy continued with her 50 grandchildren, 86 great-grandchildren and two
great-great-grandchildren.
John C. McCoy, founder of Westport and member
of the original Town Company was a pallbearer at her funeral and wrote words that
were shared: “I knew and honored her true, generous, philanthropic spirit fifty
years ago, in the unpretentious log house of the early pioneer, once standing
in the limits of this great city; and through all the years that have come and
gone since then, through all the changes, strifes, struggles, joys and sorrows,
and the lights and shadows that have swept over us, the same generous, calm,
dignified loving nature of our dear departed mother, through every trial, and
every test like pure gold shone out with undiminished luster.”
Mother McGee was buried next to her husband in
the McGee graveyard, her legacy being one of the purest visions of female
pioneer spirit the area ever had seen.
Allen Burr Harrison McGee
Out of all of their children, Allen Burr
Harrison McGee (A.B.H.) was the one who apprenticed under his father. Yes, all of the McGee sons greatly influenced
the history of Kansas City. Fry built a structure on the riverfront and later influenced
the pro-slavery ticket at 110-Mile Creek; Mobillion built a town within the
wilderness and structured Kansas City’s first large boulevard- Grand Ave.; Milt
ran away from home, came back rich from the California goldfields and became
mayor of Kansas City (more on the rest of the McGees later!). A stark contrast
from his brothers, Allen stayed level-headed, fair and enterprising within the
confines of Westport and Kansas City. He was cautious yet adventurous. His
legacy would show no bounds.
A.B.H. McGee |
Early in his teen years, Allen assisted his
father in the mill operations, started by the Roy brothers on OK Creek. The sawmill would help produce lumber for businesses and buildings in newly founded
Westport, Mo. Not long after, the desirable distillery business was the next
undertaking by both father and son. A distillery near Indian
Territory and thirsty transplants was just what the doctor ordered. Allen
claimed in an 1898 article in the Kansas
City Journal, “I’ve made whisky there the best you ever drank. They don’t
make it no more nowadays like it.”
Cheers, McGees!
According to historian R. Richard Wohl, “[Allen]
profited by being a dutiful son, from the training he received in managing his
father’s various enterprises.”
In 1837, 21 year-old Allen traveled back to
Kentucky and married Malinda Fry. The last name sounds familiar, doesn’t it?!
Well, Malinda was not just a cousin… she was a double cousin. Her mother was James McGee’s sister, and her father
was Nellie’s brother.
This puts another spin on “kissing cousins.”
The future of the Westport business resided in
outfitting those traveling on the trails to the west. In 1837, a small company
arrived in Westport from New Mexico, and according to John C. McCoy, “Capt.
John A. Sutter, a Swiss gentleman of prominence” was part of this group. He
recalled, “Within a short time. . . he bought the storehouse of Lucas &
Kavinaugh and also purchased a farm that would later become the home of Allen
B.H. McGee.”
Within 18 months, Sutter was broke. He even
threatened to take his own life. In order to give him hope, McCoy provided him
with “a honey sorrel packhorse and other necessities for travel westward.”
Allen B.H. McGee provided a horse for Sutter’s companion, Wetler (also noted as
“Wetter”).
Thank goodness that McCoy and McGee felt it important to help a friend, because the events in 1848 would change the course of western expansion when Sutter struck gold in California.
The gold rush sure did help out John C. McCoy and Allen Mcgee in their businesses in Westport, Mo.
Thank goodness that McCoy and McGee felt it important to help a friend, because the events in 1848 would change the course of western expansion when Sutter struck gold in California.
The gold rush sure did help out John C. McCoy and Allen Mcgee in their businesses in Westport, Mo.
1877 plat map highlighting in red the property of Eleanor McGee and A.B.H. |
In November 1839, James H. McGee gifted
$1200 toward the $2500 sum to purchase
part of his land. In turn, Allen and his cousin- I mean, wife- moved to 160
acres of land just north of Westport, Mo. His new farm would border current-day
Armour Blvd. to the north, 38th St. to the south, Valentine/Holly St. to the west and Broadway
to the east.
One business venture wasn’t enough for young
Allen. He began to “dabble” in the Indian trade and developed a reputation. He
even worked with John C. McCoy surveying Indian lands. His power and prestige
was enough for a group of Osage Indians to capture Allen and hold him until the
government agreed to their demands. With the help of the government, Allen was
released without any harm coming to him… even though Allen had thrown a young
Osage Indian to the ground when the man had jumped on his horse.
After the death of his father, Allen continued
to showcase his own talents in business. In 1846, he built a Sac and Fox Indian
Agency in Westport. This was not an easy task in the day and took many
connections and proposals. After three years of successful trading, he sold his
interest in moved onto his next business venture.
John C. Fremont (1813-1890) |
At this same period, he bought a mercantile store
from McCoy in Westport and enlarged it. He had observed how the first hotel in
the town, called Yoacham’s Tavern, was oftentimes full. Allen used this
building as a new hotel at the corner of Penn and Westport Rd. in the town square.
It was unofficially known as the “Catfish House” due to the chef’s specialty of
fried catfish caught fresh out of the Kaw River. After a year, he sold his
interest to John “Jack” Harris for a handsome profit. This was later known as
the Harris House Hotel until 1922 when the building was razed.
By 1848, McGee turned his interest to the
outfitting business. He could keenly sense the increase of supply and demand of
those heading west to California thanks to his old friend, John Sutter. One of Allen’s biggest boasts in his older
age was that his firm outfitted two of John Fremont’s expeditions.
In 1850, Allen was 100% devoted to the
outfitting business. The Mexican War had helped stimulate his business as trade
on the Santa Fe Trail had boomed. It had also helped that he had a relationship
with a well-known pioneer of St. Louis named Robert Campbell. As people seeking their millions to the west left St. Louis and headed toward Westport
Landing, Campbell referred them to Allen McGee’s business.
Let’s keep in mind that Allen was just 35
years old by the time he had accomplished all of this!
Allen B.H. McGee’s outfitting business
flourished for over a decade until the outbreak of the Civil War. By 45, he was
retired and living off his “investments.” He was referred to by the honorary title,
Colonel, showcasing his importance amongst the blossoming City of Kansas.
He sided
with the South, as he had at least five slaves, but his overall reputation was that of a fair gentleman with a kind, hospitable spirit.
Allen with grandchildren Annette, Susan and George Nelson, Courtesy of the McGee family |
On his property near the current-day Uptown Theater on Broadway,
Col. McGee had built a stone barn decades earlier that was somewhat of a
landmark. It was 80 feet long, 40 feet wide and had walls two feet thick.
The door was even studded with spikes. To a passerby, it looked more like a
fortress than a country barn. It was said he built it this way because the barn
prior had been burned to the ground by someone “with a grudge against the
colonel.”
During the Border Wars and Civil War, silverware and valuables
were buried inside the barn. When the barn was being removed in 1898 and the stones were to be used
as a foundation for his son, Allen B.H. Jr.’s house at 3726 Washington (the
house still stands today), the contractors found dozens of bayonet points left
from people who tried to penetrate the barn and rob the Colonel.
Although never used as a fort, ABH used to
laugh that it was useful in “keeping out the Jayhawkers.”
Allen B.H. McGee in his bedroom cir. 1901 at his home at 37th and Broadway. Note the framed portrait hanging above his desk is none other than John C. McCoy. Courtesy of the McGee Family. |
In 1867, his second wife died and their one
child had passed away. Two years later, his third and final marriage to Susan
Bruton Gill, daughter of Col. Marcus Gill, merged two of the most prominent pioneer
families. She was nineteen. He was two months’ shy of his 54th
birthday.
A closeup of the family on the front porch of the A.B.H. McGee Home at 37th and Broadway. Photograph courtesy of the McGee family, colorization by Patty Allison |
Two children, Nellie (b. 1871) and
Allen B.H. McGee II (b. 1875) were born to the couple. In 1882, Col. McGee
began to sell off pieces of his land to make room for the Kansas City
Exposition Grounds. By 1884, he built a prestigious vault for his family at Union
Cemetery and moved his immediate family from the McGee burial ground to this
sacred space.
In 1886, Allen replaced his frame house with a fine, three story brick
mansion complete with a turret and large, stained glass windows at 37th
and Broadway.
The entryway of Allen's house. Courtesy of the McGee family |
This home would be where Allen would host friends, tell stories to family and live out the rest of his life. His wife, Susan died in 1901, and Allen, ever the patriarch, continued to hold fort on his land and at his palatial house even after her death. His land had been partially sold and divided into what would become the Roanoke and Valentine neighborhoods in Midtown Kansas City.
In 1903, Col. McGee was struck with heart
failure. In his final hours at his daughter, Nellie’s house, he talked of the
pioneer days and the friends he had met along the way. He was proud, it was
reported, of his record as a pioneer and he never tired of telling of the early
times before the city had sprouted around him.
“My race is about run,” the 88 year-old Col. McGee said, “and I do not fear the end. Death is a debt we all have to pay to nature and I realize that the time to meet it has arrived.”
“My race is about run,” the 88 year-old Col. McGee said, “and I do not fear the end. Death is a debt we all have to pay to nature and I realize that the time to meet it has arrived.”
The McGee vault, built in 1886, by Allen B.H. McGee at Union Cemetery |
His home at 37th and Broadway was out of the family's hands after Col. McGee's death and by 1917, it was home to the Rochambeau Hotel. A 75-room establishment remodeled for its purposes, the Rochembeau became a well-known residential hotel. In 1932, the old McGee house fell on harder times and while under another remodel, it mysteriously caught fire.
Arson was suspected and the owners were charged with the crime.
The spot that once boasted his beautiful home was gone; the land later became a leased parking lot for use of the Uptown Theater.
The McGee Burial Ground
1898 illustration of the condition of the McGee Cemetery featured in the Kansas City Star |
When the McGees chose Jackson Co. as their
home, there were no community cemeteries. Farms held the remains of those that
passed on, and by the early 1830s, the McGee Graveyard was in full use. As
Kansas City grew from a frontier settlement to a thriving metropolis, the
family placed a large six-foot iron fence around it to mark its boundaries. Flowers, vines and
beautiful shrubs delicately landscaped the grounds.
As time went on, McGees one-by-one were moved to Elmwood Cemetery. Slowly, the fencing became bent and the flowers, vines
and bushes overgrown. The few bodies that remained were being overtaken by more
than just the city shadowing over it.
The McGee monument at Elmwood Cemetery is surrounded by the family's graves. |
The only McGee not buried at Elmwood is A.B.H. McGee and his descendants.
Interestingly, one stone seemed to stick out
from the rest of the more formal headstones of the day in that aged, venerable
cemetery. Before the ground was completely erased, a stone that simply read “Old Carlo” jutted from the ground, hidden
deeply in grass and weeds.
One can only guess that Old Carlo was an old
slave of the McGee family.
Was he, too moved to Elmwood Cemetery?
A simple guess is no, which leads us to
question what happened to the few interments that remained in the heart of the
Freight House District.
The Legacy Today
No doubt that thousands of people throughout
this country are descendants of James H. and Eleanor McGee. This inevitably happens in due time
due to our limitless mobility; a myriad amount of them most likely don’t call Kansas
City home anymore.
All of the McGee family gathered in front of the old homestead, cir. 1871. Note that directly behind Mother McGee appears to be an African-American woman, most likely a servant that was considered family. Courtesy of the McGee family |
After I wrote my blog on Marcus Gill’s home
near New Santa Fe, I was delighted when a descendant who grew up on the very
farm contacted me. And those descendants are none other than James H. McGee’s
great-great grandsons, Allen Burr Harrison McGee IV, known to friends
and family as Burr, and John. Along with their brothers, Sandy and Pat, these four are still a part of Kansas City to the core.
So often I contact people and find out they
know very little about their pioneer descendants. They shrug their shoulders and refer me to some distant cousin whose phone number may not even be correct since they haven't spoken in twenty years. I'm used to a disconnect because it happens so often in large families as they split in several directions.
L-R: Sandy, Burr, John and Pat McGee |
This legacy is undoubtedly going to last a very long time. A.B.H. McGee's namesake lives on as every first-born male generation since has named a son after him. Today, Burr's son, A.B.H. McGee V (called Quint) has a son, A.B.H. McGee VI (called Harrison).
This isn't about a cool name passed down over through each generation- it's in a temperament. As I read article after article, book after book outlining the characteristics of Allen B.H., it became all too clear that the apple doesn't fall far from the tree. The McGee Boys have a strong countenance in their features and their temperament that reminds me so much of what I read and saw in old sepia-toned photographs. They possess so many of the characteristics of their great-grandfather, born over 200 years ago.
Kansas City certainly wouldn't look the same - or may not possibly even exist as it does- without the influence of James H. McGee and his children. It's more than just a street being named after their family; it's important to embrace what once was there before us and reflect on how far we have come from "the embryo city" that once emerged from a land sale on the bluffs of the Missouri River.